Fantasyland is my favorite land in my favorite Disney park so I’m extremely biased and love all of it, even the hokey Pinoochio’s Daring Journey, Snow White’s Scary Adventure & definite kiddie ride Casey Jr.'s.
However, in my book, the absolute must-do’s for your standard Disney fan are:
Alice in Wonderland
it’s a small world
Storybook Land Canal Boat
Matterhorn (if you don’t have back/neck issues that may be aggravated by the extreme jerkiness of the original track)
Sleeping Beauty Castle-Walkthrough
Mickey & the Magical Map (great Disney stage show)
Storytelling at the Royal Theater (a very fun & witty show on a smaller stage, no princess fandom required to enjoy the banter here)
Royal Hall (could be skipped if you are not a big princess or face character fan, but I always leave in such a great mood that I can’t help but just love all over it)
Pixie Hollow (could be skipped if you are not a big Tink or face character fan, but is very well done in making you feel the size of a Pixie so even with not being a Tink fan, I like it for that aspect)
As for the rest, it would greatly depend & I appreciate that not everyone feels the way I do about Fantasyland so I’ll try to objectively describe.
Most of rest of the dark rides (Snow White’s, Pinocchio’s and Mr. Toad’s) are from another era so if you appreciate them for what they are (or have the nostalgia from a long-ago trip to Disneyland or even the versions of some of them that used to exist at WDW) they can be fabulous, but if you don’t know the characters/stories very well can be a bit weird/hokey and I’ve heard more than one family exiting them stating opinions on the oddness & lackluster experience that they were. In practical terms, even though I personally enjoy them, these ones are some of my family’s overall least favorite & first to get cut from the Touring Plan as time runs out, but I do love it when they decide they “feel like” doing these “less loved” dark rides.
The last dark ride, Peter Pan is one of my absolute fave attractions in Disneyland but it is very hard for me to justify waiting in the long lines it draws all day long. And I’m not a fan of the push 'n shove show that the rope drop dash to it has become. If we do it, we look for the line to be closer to 25 min wait & usually that’s at the end of the night (which also means we have to have the stamina to be there until park close AND wait through a 25 min. line), but if we do have enough energy, it’s a nice send-off of Pixie dust for the walk out of a (more) quiet Fantasyland Main St & out to our hotel.
That then just leaves the “kiddie” rides: King Arthur Carousel, Mad Tea Party, Dumbo & Casey Jr. all of which while not truly unique to Disneyland, are to me, part of the joy of that land so even if I were to go alone without my kids I wouldn’t ever skip all of them, especially the Carousel which my favorite of the bunch. The carousel & Mad Tea Party are also really beautiful at night so even if you don’t ride them, I would be sure to catch a cycle of them running at night for the lit-up beautiful ambiance.
As a parent who’s had kids that loved both Dumbo & Casey Jr. rides, I probably would be hard-pressed to skip those either (even going without the kids) unless the lines were completely unmanageable, which for both are often a walk-on in the last hour of the parks & for the first 30 min. or more in the morning depending on what time the park opens & how busy it is that day. But those could be skipped if time were an issue.